Across four nations lies a century-old path from Ejigbo to Abidjan. Discover how Yoruba women turned this hidden trail into a lifeline of legacy. Authored by RAKIYA A. MUHAMMAD, a fellow of the Move Africa 2025 project. This story was first published on the website of The African Women in Media (AWIM), in collaboration with the African Union (AU) and Deutsche Gesellschaft Für Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ),
It was a moment that would forever change her life. Sitting with her sibling who had recently moved to Côte d’Ivoire, she listened intently as they shared stories of opportunity, growth, and new beginnings.
“It was never in my thoughts that I would ever go to Côte d’Ivoire until one of my brothers came from there to take me,” recalls Madam Rebecca Adebayo, from Ejigbo, Southwest Nigeria, who migrated over five decades ago.
“I just finished modern school and had taken the form for nursing school. My boyfriend later disappointed me, so I went to Ibadan and was doing well selling provisions at Agbeni Market. Then one of my half-brothers came from Côte d’Ivoire and insisted that they should call me back home.”
That moment when hope met uncertainty became the turning point. She bravely embraced the unknown, her courage shining through as she was convinced that her aspirations could transcend boundaries.
“I was already married with a child, so they begged my husband. I had to sell off all the provisions quickly and pack my things ready for the trip with my child while my husband stayed behind.”
Madam Rebecca would never return to her first husband in Nigeria and had to remarry in Côte d’Ivoire. Now 80 years old, she is one of many Ejigbo women who migrate to Côte d’Ivoire daily.
Decades ago, economic exigencies and limited opportunities pushed many women to seek a better life in Côte d’Ivoire. In recent times, the exodus has persisted, weaving stories of migration into the everyday life of the quiet streets of Ejigbo. Although specific statistics are non-existent, a casual interaction with many Ejigbo people will show that most families in Ejigbo have multiple members in Côte d’Ivoire.
The Osun State official website notes that out of about 1.2 million Nigerians residing in Côte d’Ivoire since the 1900s until the present, indigenes of the Ejigbo local government area made up more than 50%.
Opeyemi Aderanti, Secretary of LABA International Transport, who has been with the company for over six years, confirms that the number of female travelers outweighs that of men.
“Many travelers focus on business, and since women constitute the majority in trade, this may explain why the population of women migrants exceeds that of men. However, we do serve both male and female customers.”
These women travel for two to three days through Nigeria, Benin Republic, Togo, Ghana to Côte d’Ivoire.
“When I first approached the Seme border in Lagos, my heart was pounding. I had never crossed an international border before, and the chaos around me was overwhelming,” recalls Sewa Abidoye.
“Crossing into Benin Republic, I felt a rush of relief mixed with apprehension. The language changed, and the environment felt more foreign. I realized I was beginning a journey into unfamiliar physical and emotional territory.”
Sewa was mesmerized by the lush green landscapes and lively market scenes in Togo. The border process was quicker in Ghana where the air was filled with music and energy.
“When I finally arrived at the Côte d’Ivoire border in Noé, I felt both exhausted and excited. I looked around and saw people bustling with purpose and felt a sense of hope.”
But it was a different travel experience when Rebecca embarked on her journey decades ago. She recalls that transportation to Côte d’Ivoire at the time was by ship:
“There were no luxury buses in Ejigbo going to Côte d’Ivoire. When I learnt that we would travel by ship, I was afraid and skeptical about entering it, but I eventually summoned enough courage to board it.”
Salmat Oladeji, who migrated in 1982, shares her own experience of the journey:
“Luxury buses plied on the road with the passengers’ loads and luggage all in the vehicle. If the vehicle becomes faulty, it can take six days, a week, or more. It may happen in the middle of nowhere, and there won’t be food or water. Sometimes, we eat only raw pepper with cassava,” she reminisces.
“Now, there are many options for vehicles. The luxury buses take three days to complete the journey, while the small vehicles take two days.”
According to the Migration Data Portal’s regional data overview for West Africa, Côte d’Ivoire constitutes one of the top 10 migration corridors in West Africa and is the number one destination country for migrants within the region.
As of mid-2020, Ivory Coast was home to 2,564,857 migrants, constituting 9.7% of the population. People move within the region partly because of a shared goal to strengthen regional economic ties. This has made it easier for them to travel freely, live, and set up businesses in other ECOWAS countries.
For female migrants, policies such as the ECOWAS Common Approach on Migration (2008) have opened doors to new economic opportunities and personal growth while emphasizing gender. Freedom of movement reduces the traditionally faced barriers, such as visa requirements and lengthy border procedures, enabling women to pursue previously inaccessible livelihoods.
Migration History, Routes
Olalekan Henry Adebodun, a distinguished researcher in migration, gender studies, diaspora, and sociopolitical history, meticulously traces the roots of the Ejigbo-Cote d’Ivoire migration.
“In the 1900s, two men from Ejigbo town named Alabi Emmanuel and Alhaji Muthahiru Saraki (Lawure) were the first set of people to migrate out of Ejigbo to Abidjan. Their prosperity attracted many from Ejigbo to Abidjan, and the movement has continued to date,” he states.
“The Ejigbo people had long decided to settle in Abidjan (Cote d’Ivoire’s major urban center) for business purposes, and this is what they are known for in Abidjan. Although there are Ejigbo people in other West African countries like Ghana, Togo, Burkina Faso, Liberia, and Benin, to mention a few, it should be noted that those in this category are few.”
“This was made possible because, in the early phase of independence for the Ivorians, they had no opportunity to import from their neighbors due to the assimilation policy instilled in them by their colonial masters,” the historian reflects.
“The influx of traders brought in goods from countries they could not import from, which made the transaction easy for Ivorians at this time.”
When asked what makes Côte d’Ivoire (also known as Ivory Coast) stand out among other African countries?
“The favourability of the place. During festive periods in Ejigbo, traders from Abidjan will come home with evidence of good fortune. They would build big houses to live in, or bring along big cars, putting on good clothes. Their contemporaries who migrated to other West African countries will tend to see that Abidjan is a home of fortune for Ejigbo people.”
Life and Trade in Côte d’Ivoire
In Côte d’Ivoire, women from Ejigbo build new lives. Many become traders, integral to local markets and economies. As they advance, they build a network that surpasses cultural divides, sharing resources among themselves, offering advice, and creating growth opportunities.
Madam Rebecca, a resilient entrepreneur, shares her personal experiences, which are a testament to these women’s unwavering determination.
“When I got to Cote d’Ivoire, I was asked to wait for some time before I did anything because I didn’t understand French and could not communicate.”
This language barrier is a common challenge that many Nigerian women who migrate to Côte d’Ivoire face. However, they seek help from family members or other Nigerian women who have already established themselves in the country.
“I told them I could not be sitting at home doing nothing, so I went to one of my aunts from my mother’s side called Ayo Balogun, who gave me 500 CFA, and another one gave me 500 CFA.”
Madam Rebecca started selling bananas, chewing sticks, and other items in front of our house.
“After two years, I could speak their language, and I started buying items in larger quantities and making more profit. I stopped selling bananas, and my new husband gave me some capital to start a business. I don’t remember now, but it was less than ₦1,000.”
“Later, my in-laws told me to join my co-wives in the market, and we are all selling the same thing: cosmetics, baby items, and the like.”
Today, she is a prominent female entrepreneur in Côte d’Ivoire.
According to a local Ivorian business owner named Madame Fatoumata, “Ejigbo women work hard. They bring new ideas and flavours to our markets. Watching them integrate seamlessly while preserving their culture is quite inspiring.”
Alhaji Fatai Atilade Bello Oke, a prominent figure in Ejigbo who was born and bred in Côte d’Ivoire, speaks of the dominance of Ejigbo women in the market. They own most of the major shops, making them the driving force of trade in Abidjan.
“Their influence extends globally, with many travelling to the UK, America, Italy, China, and other countries to import and sell goods in Côte d’Ivoire.”
He also highlights the significant support they provide to their hometown. “Most of the funding, about 70-80%, comes from our people in Côte d’Ivoire. 90% of Côte d’Ivoire’s Ejigbo population regularly send food and other essential items back to Ejigbo.”
Mrs. Ifeoma J. Akabogu-Chinwuba, a former ambassador to Nigeria in Côte d’Ivoire, notes, “Ejigbo women have played a major role in terms of ensuring peace and harmony among their people in Abidjan, and this was as a result of the special recognition that late President Félix Houphouët-Boigny gave to women in general that they should be respected in the country.”
Sales Assistant Abidoye Sewa migrated to Côte d’Ivoire ten years ago.
“Life in Abidjan is more peaceful. You get value for your money in terms of welfare packages and social amenities, and food is relatively cheap compared to Nigeria,” she shares.
“With a little effort, a quality three-course meal is guaranteed at an affordable price. Distinguishing between the poor and the rich can be challenging, as everyone partakes in fundamental choices.”
Present-day Cultural and Economic Ties
Food is more than just nourishment. It tells the story of who we are as a people and culture. In both Ejigbo and Abidjan, shared food and traditions reflect a long-standing bond between the two places.
Madam Badirat Ayoni, born in Côte d’Ivoire to parents from Ejigbo, embodies this connection. As a second-generation migrant, she has balanced both cultures well.
Thanks to women like her, the culinary landscape of Ejigbo has undergone a fascinating transformation. Ivorian food, with its unique flavors and textures, such as attiéké (a side dish made from cassava), has found its way into local kitchens, creating a vibrant fusion that reflects the interconnectedness of these communities.
As she turned the key to her restaurant for the first time, she felt the thrill of a new beginning mingled with a profound sense of achievement. Her aspirations had finally materialized.
As we speak, her eyes glisten with tears of joy and pride. Her hands tremble slightly as she arranges a dish of attiéké paired with grilled fish and spicy pepper sauce.
At that moment, she felt the heartbeat of the Ivory Coast pulse through every dish she served, bringing a piece of her adopted homeland to her community.
“Opening this restaurant, I wanted everyone to taste the heart of Ivory Coast right here in Ejigbo.”
Badirat is one of the many entrepreneurs who have harnessed their migration experiences to create economic opportunities, selling Ivorian local food in Ejigbo and catering to the local population’s mixed preferences.
“I sell attiéké in Ejigbo because the majority of people here are linked to Côte d’Ivoire, and attiéké is one of the major foods they all love to eat.
“It’s been over 11 years since I started, and I am the second person to start selling it in Ejigbo. I started selling when I noticed that many people demanded it and that one person couldn’t meet the demand. Later, many people ventured into the business, too.”
Comparing her business in Abidjan and Ejigbo, the 57-year-old says both are moving well.
“If you have enough capital to invest in Nigeria, you will surely make it. But I travel to Côte d’Ivoire every three months because I still have business there. My children are there, selling for me. I take items like soft drinks to Abidjan and return with attiéké in large quantities.”
But why did she return at all? “No matter how long you stay abroad, your home remains your home. I decided to return and stay in my hometown to explore.”
As migration continues to surge, so does the linguistic exchange between Ejigbo and Côte d’Ivoire. Many Ejigbo residents incorporate it into their daily interactions, and this boosts the connection between Anglophone and Francophone West Africa.
Over time, many in Ejigbo have adopted French, the official language of Côte d’Ivoire, reflecting their deep economic and cultural ties.
Adeleke Folashade is one of many Ejigbos who weave French into their conversations, embodying how cultures blend through trade and migration. She migrated to Abidjan three years ago and recently made a home visit to check on her family in Nigeria.
She was one of the women waiting to board the Abidjan bus from Ejigbo.
Stepping into the bustling hub that is Ejigbo Market immerses visitors in a lively atmosphere that showcases the market’s role as a place of trade, the rich exchange of goods and stories across West Africa. The goods, sourced from Ejigbo and Côte d’Ivoire, reflect the two regions’ strong cultural ties. Many Ivorian items—soap, aromatic spices, farming implements, and colourful wax prints—are available in Ejigbo Market.
“I have customers from Côte d’Ivoire. Some have bought from me for five years, some for three years, and some just about a year ago. We have many, and business has been good.
“Ejigbo women in Côte d’Ivoire patronize us more than the people in Nigeria. We communicate through WhatsApp. They will check what I have, choose, and pay. Then, I will send their items through the vehicles that go to Côte d’Ivoire.
“All of them are Yorubas from Ejigbo, so we communicate in Yoruba because I don’t understand French. They only speak French with people from Côte d’Ivoire or those who have stayed there and returned home.”
Chief Janet Oguntola, the Iyaloja (leader of the market women) of Ejigbo, shared that, “Ivory Coast is the economic pot of the people of Ejigbo. Imported products from Abidjan are strong, unique, and cheap. Our farmers bring food crops such as maize, yam, cassava, and palm wine from over there. They also cultivate cocoa, kola nut and oil palm.”
Women like Madam Rebecca reinvest in their communities, opening businesses, mentoring others, and strengthening bonds across borders. They bring a unique perspective that blends their Yoruba heritage with Ivorian influences.
Madam Rebecca is one of those who invested in modern buildings, changing the face of Ejigbo. Alhaja Aolat Jimoh (a.k.a. Iya Oko Messer), a businesswoman in Ejigbo Market, is among the Ejigbo women who spent decades in Côte d’Ivoire and returned to their homeland.
Many of these women have resumed their businesses with a fresh outlook upon returning home. Whether they re-establish their former trade or launch new ventures, they are committed to revitalizing the local economy.
They introduce high-demand goods from Côte d’Ivoire, and their businesses flourish as they connect suppliers in Côte d’Ivoire with consumers back home.
The 70-year-old went to Abidjan as a spinster and later married there. When her husband moved to Ejigbo, Alhaja Aolat returned with him, but some of her children are still in Côte d’Ivoire and have taken over the shop while she continues her business in Ejigbo.
Another returnee is Musili Akinrinola.
“My parents took my siblings and me there and had some others there, too. Our forefathers used to be businessmen who took my parents to Abidjan. Back then, they used to buy goods from Lagos, Ibadan, Ejigbo, and many other places and bring them to Abidjan.
“I got married in Abidjan. Later, we started the business, travelling to Lagos and Ibadan to buy and sell items in Abidjan and its environs.”
The businesswoman who sells household items says, “People in Côte d’Ivoire love things from Nigeria, just as we also love things from their country; that is why trading is facilitated.”
Yet, some women in Ejigbo stand firm, refusing to succumb to the pull of migration. Instead, they choose to nurture their entrepreneurial spirit within their home communities.
Rafatu Usman is a food stall owner who has been in the business for over two decades. She expresses her preference for home.
“I have never been to Abidjan before,” she asserts. “I received many advances and even invites from my friends and family, but I declined. My husband does not like me to go. I have many in-laws there, but I don’t want to go to Côte d’Ivoire.”
When asked how business is in Ejigbo, she replies, “It’s paying my bills, and I am okay with that. I do not have any regrets whatsoever.”
However, migration has led to significant socio-economic changes in Ejigbo. In many cases, returnees contribute to revitalizing the village, which was previously isolated and underdeveloped, by bringing back new ideas, skills, and resources.
They invest their savings in Ejigbo, improving local economic conditions, and increasing money circulation within the community.
Hon. Tajudeen Oladipupo, the Secretary of Ejigbo Development, describes the migration for greener pastures as good, adding that travelling is part of education and civilization. However, he says they cannot all migrate.
People are seeking greener pastures; people are looking for survival; people are living on the impression others give them about Côte d’Ivoire that life is easier there than in Nigeria; that’s why people are trooping there,” states Oladipupo, a former vice chairman of Ejigbo local government.
Our people are travelling to Côte d’Ivoire, which is good, but we cannot all go there because we have individual differences. It may not be relevant to some people because of their profession, or the projects they are working on may not be applicable in the French-speaking country.”
Nevertheless, he says that most of those who went there returned with good fortune.
“They have contributed a lot to the economy. Some of them who made money there have come home to invest in businesses like filling stations, schools, hotels, event centers and trading in large quantities.
“Ejigbo people in Côte d’Ivoire have also contributed greatly to our religious development by building churches and mosques and assisting the religious associations here. Most of the beautiful houses in this community are built by our people who have sojourned in Côte d’Ivoire or are still sojourning there.
He also speaks to the specific impact of migrant women.
“Women are at the forefront of trading. Our women not only relocate there, but they also travel outside the Ivory Coast to trade. From Côte d’Ivoire to Dubai, Côte d’Ivoire to China, to America, and Côte d’Ivoire to the UK, and when they come home, they invest in Ejigbo.”
As they reintegrate into their community, they inspire others to leave their comfort zones, while reminding them that no matter where life takes you, the journey may lead back home to make a difference.
Want to hear these stories in the subjects’ voices?
Tap below to listen to the Borderless Women podcast episode, where Ejigbo traders, returnees, and market queens share the laughter, struggle, and legacy behind West Africa’s hidden migration trail.
